![]() Just messing with old hoses could make them fail in short order. You should replace the hoses too while you have everything apart. This is all assuming it's the radiator which is likely. Either way you'll need to remove the bottom plastic motor if yours is still on the vehicle. Remove the fans, hold down brackets at the top and hoses at the top and it will lift out If you have an auto you will also have to remove the tranny coolant lines at the bottom. Happened to my Miata too so it's not a Forester thing but a plastic radiator tank issue. It happened to me on our 2001 Forster and many others it's not uncommon. So chances are that the crimp is leaking or the plastic itself has cracked and it's leaking out that way. I found this on Amazon and it says it fits: I don't have a 98 and it looks like your radiator has a different setup, tanks on the side not top and bottom. If it does not do that, then you have some kind of leak in the system (radiator, hose, head gasket, etc) It should go up and down - at least by ~2-3" - maybe more. When you get everything fixed and all back together, a simple test that things are working is to look at the coolant level in the overflow. Put the cap on to prevent making a royal mess, but you can get by without radiator pressure. So, check your coolant level every day and keep it topped up. But during that period, the vehicle did not overheat, even on a couple of 60 mile highway trips at 70+ mph. It took me a couple of days to discover what was wrong. A year or so back (at 104,995 miles), my XT radiator decided to depart to radiator heaven. ![]() I don't recommend this as a general practice but in a pinch it might get you through. That is, if you fill the radiator and loosen the cap so no pressure is created, the vehicle should not overheat. ![]() There is no "fix" for a leaking Subaru radiator.įWIW, if your radiator is full of coolant, it should cool the engine even without being pressurized. They have a finite lifetime - maybe 100-150k miles. Subaru radiators have an aluminum core and plastic top and bottom tanks - the seams between the parts start leaking over time. Replacing the radiator is not a difficult DIY install. A new OEM radiator from eBay is in the $150-range - which is a lot cheaper than a new engine. This is really not an area to take chances. Other responders have noted the risk(s) of allowing an engine to overheat - they are exactly right. While driving, I noticed that the temp gauge eventually reached the red, and then the fan started blowing cool air instead of warm.ĭoes anybody have any idea on what I can do to try and fix this issue?Ĭlick to expand.Yes, replace the radiator. There was a fair deal of coolant in the overflow, but it wasn't topped off. This is the first time that it's happened. After turning it off, I opened the hood, and there was some steam coming from the left side of the radiator, and a little bit coming from the right side of the engine compartment close to the engine. I drove 30 mins to my work, and after I parked, there was some steam coming from the engine bay. I dropped off my first son, and then the second, and there was nothing noticeable about my car was acting. I got my two boys in the car shortly after, and we were on our way. I started my car up, turned the heater on the lowest setting, and allowed it to warm up. On Saturday and Sunday, I drove it, but had no issues, and the gauge acted normally. The car didn't exude any steam or smoke, but I figured I would top up the radiator just to make sure. A couple days ago, I noticed that the gauge was staying in the red. gauge was a bit erratic, but I didn't think much of it, as I had no money to properly look and diagnose/fix it. I purchased my '98 Forester F a couple months ago for $1,500. Let me precede this with information about the car.
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